Three black-maned lion brothers about to start patrolling their territory. Credit: Alexandra George
Pre-dawn delights tenting in the Okavango included lions roaring, hippos serenading, hyenas whooping and turtle doves cooing as my wake-up call. The night before I had zipped up the open-netting windows on my tent my imagination running away with me after spending time with the three black-maned lion brothers in the early morning observing their ritual before they headed off to patrol their territory. I asked myself, what if the lion brothers ambled into camp and one of them peeked into my tent recalling a similar event recounted by Delia Owens in her classic, Cry of the Kalahari.
My apprehensions were not unfounded as Botswana has pristine unfenced conservation areas so there is nothing between you and the wildlife.
Lions appeared at almost every twist and turn of my epic nine-day mobile tented safari. It was like taking a field course on the Lion Kingdom lifestyle in the Okavango: a pair of young lions taking a morning stroll, sauntering along the woodlands; a pride of eight young lions sleeping peacefully as we came upon them in early morning drive; an even more unlikely event, a photo studio session with a Lion King; three black-maned lion brothers out patrolling their territory after a relaxed early morning lounge-about; a royal courtship in the long grass. Magical sights unfolded at every minute, a treasure trove of forever memories stored in my backpack.
My encounters with lions of the Okavango Delta were eye-popping over-the-top adventures. Cliches about lions as wild beasts were quickly tossed into the dustbin of wildlife folklore. While, yes, just below the surface lies that killer instinct that gives lions a bad rap, insights from my journey of discovery were that lions have a multifaceted personality, strong emotional ties exist among pride members, deep bonds bind brothers of the same pride. And all are big-time nappers and eminently social creatures.
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Proof lay in the pudding – and that was the Lion King studio photo session I had one afternoon. Whoever heard of a lion posing for a photo session! That was beyond the wildest fantasy of any safari goer. But the Lion King, with his imposing red and black mane, sat for my camera! The lion seemed to know instinctively that we, safari-goers, had set forth from distant shores to admire him.
The lion turned his magnificent mane this way and that, 45 degrees to the right, upward toward the sun; faced my lens so I could capture his resplendent mane. At one point in the studio session he turned his head so one could admire his profile resembling a coin portrait of a Roman Emperor.
After the photo shoot I bowed and asked, “Would Your Royal Highness like me to send the photos by Royal Mail? I can have a migrating white stalk deliver it to your lion pride neighbours at Kwando’s Pom Pom camp”. HRH seemed to nod affirmatively!
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Lion portraits covered different age groups! On our first morning drive, not far from our tented camp, a young lion and his lioness, were enjoying a leisurely morning stroll taking in the Khwai concession with its patchwork of lagoons. Watching the young couple ambling carefree along the open grassland and Mopane woodland trees, exuding a sense of effortless connection, could have been a classical romantic scene in a French perfume ad.
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Then there was the pride of eight young lions – 4 males, 4 lionesses – sleeping and hanging out one early morning. Many minutes ticked by as I watched all the “antics” of the lion pride. Some pride members snuggled up to their mates. Other lionesses were licking each other. The males were head rubbing and nuzzling up against each other. Such displays of affection were aimed at bolstering social bonds within the family. In the savanna there’s strength in numbers. The lion motto tells it straight: ‘United we stand!’
Another day after a successful cape buffalo hunt the pride spent several days feasting on the unlucky creature. On day three, when we visited the pride at dusk, some pride members were sleeping under a tree their bellies full from gorging themselves. Meanwhile, two to three other pride members were turning over the carcass to get at the entrails, while vultures circled overhead.
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Never in my wildest dreams did I expect to meet three black-maned lion brothers. At about 7.30 a.m., an hour and a half into another morning drive, our guide had tracked the large spoor prints of three lions, followed the alarm calls of baboons and Francolin birds, and knew with his unswerving sixth sense that lions were in the neighbourhood.
The lions were sleeping separately but, on waking, all came together and began strolling down the woodland. After a morning spent relaxing in the long grass snuggling each other and head rubbing, a way to cement the male coalition, eventually the three formidable creatures got up.
The might coalition ambled down the woodland and eventually reached a path continuing to walk their beat as lions won’t tolerate trespassing on their territory lightly.
In the late afternoon I saw one of the black-maned brothers with his mate, a beautiful lioness lying in the golden grass. Watching the lion’s courtship was deeply moving. I felt privileged having a front-row seat to the royal courtship witnessing the tenderness displayed between two mating lions.
My last night tenting in Moremi Game Reserve, as I dozed off to the magical sound of birds and hippos honking, the images of my myriad lion encounters loomed before me… I dreamed that a black-maned lion brother was peeking into my tent. Instead of screaming in alarm, I whispered, “Welcome, Your Highness! Please come in. For thine is the kingdom!”
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